DermNourish: Trial

Barrier Repair and Eczema treatment

• Niacinamide increases barrier layer proteins such as involucrin, filaggrin and keratin. Filaggrin is critical in the formation of natural skin moisturising factors.
• Niacinamide provides long-lasting protection against the invasion of bacteria by activating an AMP (Antimicrobial Peptide) response. 
• Stimulates the synthesis of ceramides and other intercellular lipids, decreasing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and strengthening the skin's barrier against irritants and allergens.
• Aquaporin 3 is a gene that encodes water-permeable channels. The upregulation of aquaporin 3 is associated with Atopic Dermatitis / Eczema (AD), which leads to water loss through the skin. Niacinamide prevents the upregulation of aquaporin 3, thereby decreasing water permeability and water loss.
• Eczema/Atopic Dermatitis (AD) is an inflammatory skin condition. Niacinamide has anti-inflammatory properties by inhibiting PARP-1 and the associated expression of inflammatory cytokines, chemokines, adhesion molecules and inflammatory mediators.
• Increased cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) phosphodiesterase (PDE) contributes to increased histamine and IgE levels in Atopic Dermatitis.
  
  Niacinamide inhibits cAMP PDE and stabilises mast cells, thereby reversing the increased histamine and IgE levels in Atopic Dermatitis.

Inhibit hyperpigmentation

• Prevents DNA damage through antioxidant activity.
• Prevent melanosome transfer from melanocytes to surrounding skin cells.

Treating inflammatory skin conditions

• Reduce the inflammatory response by inhibiting inflammatory messengers.
• Provides long-lasting protection against bacteria through activation of anti-microbial peptides

Treating and preventing premature skin aging and improving skin barrier function

• Stimulate collagen synthesis and significantly increase skin elasticity.
• Prevents the breakdown of collagen and elastin through antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity.
• Prevents DNA damage through antioxidant activity.
• Increases production of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve skin barrier funtion.
• Niacinamide boosts cellular energy and may enhance energy-dependent cellular processes such as DNA repair.

• Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring biopolymer possessing numerous functions within the body, including wound repair, cell migration, and cell signalling. 
• With age, hyaluronic acid in the skin decreases sharply, resulting in a loss of hydration, volume and plumpness. Lines and wrinkles also appear, leaving skin looking dull and lacklustre. 
• Hyaluronic acid comes in various molecular sizes. Larger molecules stay on the surface and give the skin a ‘dewy’ look, while smaller molecules penetrate deeper into the skin to deliver their hydration and plumping benefits.
• The cellular and physiological effects of Hyaluronic acid directly depend on the molecular weight of HA present. Therefore, the selection of HA weight is of critical importance. 
• The cellular and physiological effects of Hyaluronic acid directly depend on the molecular weight of HA present. Therefore, the selection of HA weight is of critical importance. 
• High molecular weight: Doesn't penetrate the epidermis.
  Very low molecular weight: Penetrate the skin efficiently but can induce a pro-inflammatory response.
  Low molecular weight HA [50 kDa]: Penetrates into the skin well and does not cause inflammation. 

HYDRATION

• Hyaluronic acid can bind water up to 1000 times its volume and contributes to cellular growth, adhesion, and membrane receptor function. 
• Hyaluronic acid reinforces the intercellular structures and produces the elastoviscous fluid matrix that firmly envelops collagen and elastin fibres. 
• Hyaluronic acid holds moisture and provides firmness and radiance to the skin. 

Anti-aging

• Hyaluronic acid increases pro-collagen I synthesis and reduce skin roughness.
• Hyaluronic acid has an important role in skin aging. Cells lose their ability to produce Hyaluronic acid with aging. The skin becomes drier, thinner, and looser, leading to wrinkling, among other significant changes. 
• Skin aging is also associated with a decrease of skin moisture. Hyaluronic acid has a unique capacity to link and retain water molecules. Hyaluronic acid is a natural component that is present in the whole body. It is naturally and constantly renewed because of its rapid degradation, but its renewal tends to slow with age and external aggressions. Therefore it is necessary to act very early, sustaining an optimal hyaluronic acid turnover, similar to that of young skin, in order to prevent the signs of aging.
• In relation to its biological effects at the skin level, it is known that hyaluronic acid is actively involved in skin cell signalling (by binding the CD44 and LYVE-1 receptors) and thus influences the extracellular matrix (ECM) stability.
• Hyaluronic acid has an impact on the growth of keratinocytes (skin cells) which protect the epidermis from aging and promotes elasticity. 

WOUND HEALING

• D-Panthenol is part of medical wound-healing formulations for its ability to help treat skin injuries, burns, and sunburn.
• D-Panthenol is also beneficial after medical and cosmetic surgeries for its wound healing properties.
• It treats superficial and deep wounds by increasing cell turnover and fibroblast proliferation.
• A 2020 review on the role of d-panthenol on wound healing states that it is excellent for post-procedural wounds, especially when used immediately after skin damage.

REPAIR SKIN BARRIER FUNCTION

• Panthenol promotes skin barrier repair by enhancing lipid synthesis and epidermal differentiation. This helps hydrate the outermost layer of the skin and locks in moisture.
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• A 2016 study also found that d-panthenol increases the mobility of proteins and lipids in dehydrated skin, improving its elasticity and hydration. It also retains or increases molecular fluidity to compensate for reduced hydration.
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ANTI-INFLAMMATORY

• Panthenol’s moisturizing properties also contribute to its anti-inflammatory nature.
• Keeping the skin moisturized can help prevent it from becoming sensitive and easily irritated. As such, panthenol can help improve the roughness, dryness, itching, redness, and scaling associated with conditions such as eczema, contact dermatitis, and psoriasis.
• A 2019 study adds that panthenol may alleviate facial redness resulting from winter xerosis in people with sensitive skin.
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• Humectant. It allows the skin to retain moisture. It increases skin hydration, relieves dryness, and refreshes the skin’s surface.
• Emollient. Soften rough or dry patches on the skin.
• Anti-microbial. Help to protect the skin from harmful microorganisms.

Stearic acid is a long-chain saturated fatty acid known to be the best choice for barrier repair moisturizers.

FATTY ACIDS ARE Very important FOR general skin health

• Fatty acids directly affect skin health because they influence the fluidity of cell membranes which regulate the entry and exit of molecules into cells.
• Fatty acids also directly affect general health because they play a role in many important cellular processes. For example, fatty acids get involved in cellular communication and are involved in immune system response.