Collagen serum: Trial

• Vitamin C is an effective antioxidant, brightens the skin tone and reduces signs of aging. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate / Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is an oil-soluble derivative of Vitamin C that can be used in higher concentrations without drawbacks. It is one of the most stable derivatives of Vitamin C.
• Since tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is lipid-soluble, it can penetrate the skin better than L-ascorbic acid and other water-soluble forms of vitamin C. Unlike L-ascorbic acid, it does not readily degrade in formulas and has a neutral pH of 7, which, while above the skin’s natural pH, is far less irritating than the acidic L-ascorbic acid forms of vitamin C.

Antioxidant

• Protect the skin from free radicals. Free radicals are generated from external factors such as UV light, smoking, diet and pollution.
• Vitamin C helps to neutralize free radicals imbalance by process of electron transfer or donation. This is important because the harmful effects of free radicals can damage the DNA in your cells, the cell membrane, and cellular proteins, including collagen. When collagen within the skin is damaged, signs of premature aging can appear, such as wrinkles, lines, and sagging skin. Therefore, the ability of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate to protect collagen makes it an essential ingredient to include in your anti-aging skincare routine.

Hyperpigmentation

• Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate interacts with copper ions at tyrosinase-active sites. It inhibits the action of tyrosinase, the primary enzyme responsible for the conversion of tyrosine into melanin, thereby decreasing melanin formation. In simpler terms, It reduces the uneven distribution of melanin pigment or the molecule responsible for creating colour in the skin.
• By decreasing the synthesis of melanin, the appearance of dark spots is reduced. However, it is important always to remember to wear sunscreen when treating hyperpigmentation. This is important for two main reasons. The first is that the sun can worsen hyperpigmentation. The second is that products that support hyperpigmentation treatment can often increase the skin's sensitivity to UV damage. This includes products such as retinol and retinoids.

Collagen synthesis

• Vitamin C improves the elasticity of the skin and reduces wrinkles by supporting collagen synthesis.
• After the age of 20, a person produces about 1% less collagen in the skin each year. As a result, the skin becomes thinner and more fragile with age.
• By increasing the production of collagen, vitamin C helps to keep the skin strong, firm, and less susceptible to wrinkle formation.
• Vitamin C acts as a cofactor or a helper molecule in the body’s natural collagen-forming process. Studies have looked at Vitamin C's ability to crosslink and stabilize collagen fibers.
• Vitamin C has also been investigated for its involvement in producing a molecule called procollagen mRNA. This molecule signals the production of collagen and is responsible for signalling to the cell that collagen is needed. Several studies support vitamin C’s involvement in the processes that produce collagen.

Inhibit hyperpigmentation

• Prevents DNA damage through antioxidant activity.
• Prevent melanosome transfer from melanocytes to surrounding skin cells.

Treating Rosacea, Acne and other inflammatory skin conditions

• Reduce the inflammatory response by inhibiting inflammatory messengers.
• Provides long-lasting protection against bacteria through activation of anti-microbial peptides.
• Reduce sebum (oil) production, thus preventing bacterial growth and inflammation.

Treating and preventing premature skin aging and improving skin barrier function

• Stimulate collagen synthesis and significantly increase skin elasticity.
• Prevents the breakdown of collagen and elastin through antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity.
• Prevents DNA damage through antioxidant activity.
• Increases production of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve skin barrier funtion.

• Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring biopolymer possessing numerous functions within the body, including wound repair, cell migration, and cell signalling.
• With age, hyaluronic acid in the skin decreases sharply, resulting in a loss of hydration, volume and plumpness. Lines and wrinkles also appear, leaving skin looking dull and lacklustre.
• Many people don’t realize that hyaluronic acid comes in various molecular sizes. Larger molecules stay on the surface and give the skin a ‘dewy’ look, while smaller molecules penetrate deeper into the skin to deliver their hydration and plumping benefits.
• HA can exist across a wide range of molecular weights, with the cellular and physiological effects directly depending on the molecular weight of HA present. Therefore, the selection of HA weight is of critical importance.
• High molecular weight HA does not penetrate the epithelium.
• Very low molecular weight HA, which does penetrate the skin efficiently, can induce a pro-inflammatory response.
• Recent data indicates that solutions of low molecular weight HA [50 kDa] can penetrate the skin well but do not cause inflammation.

HYDRATION

• Hyaluronic acid can bind water up to 1000 times its volume and contributes to cellular growth, adhesion, and membrane receptor function.
• Hyaluronic acid reinforces the intercellular structures and produces the elastoviscous fluid matrix that firmly envelops collagen and elastin fibres.
• Hyaluronic acid holds moisture and provides firmness and radiance to the skin.

Anti-aging

• Hyaluronic acid increases pro-collagen I synthesis and reduce skin roughness.
• Hyaluronic acid has an important role in skin aging. Cells lose their ability to produce Hyaluronic acid with aging. The skin becomes drier, thinner, and looser, leading to wrinkling, among other significant changes.
• Skin aging is also associated with a decrease of skin moisture. Hyaluronic acid has a unique capacity to link and retain water molecules. Hyaluronic acid is a natural component that is present in the whole body. It is naturally and constantly renewed because of its rapid degradation, but its renewal tends to slow with age and external aggressions. Therefore it is necessary to act very early, sustaining an optimal hyaluronic acid turnover, similar to that of young skin, in order to prevent the signs of aging.
• In relation to its biological effects at the skin level, it is known that hyaluronic acid is actively involved in skin cell signalling (by binding the CD44 and LYVE-1 receptors) and thus influences the extracellular matrix (ECM) stability.
• Hyaluronic acid has an impact on the growth of keratinocytes (skin cells) which protect the epidermis from aging and promotes elasticity.

SALICYLIC ACID

• Salicylic acid reduces sebum secretion.
• Salicylic acid has potent anti-inflammatory effects, as it is an inhibitor of the arachidonic acid cascade.
• Salicylic acid reduces inflammation by modulating COX2 gene expression to decrease the formation of pro-inflammatory cytokines.

GLYCOLIC ACID

• Reduce acne-related inflammation. 
• Exhibit pH-dependent antibacterial activity against C. acnes. At a pH of 3-3.5, glycolic acid kills C. acnes cells by disrupting bacterial cell membranes.

An active ingredient made from the combination of 3 powerful actives with extraordinary benefits for the skin:

• Honey Extract
• Marine native Collagen
• Marine Hydrolyzed Elastin

Honey Exctract

• Provides natural moisturising factor analogue substances to skin cells.
• It also provides the skin with components with a vital capacity for hydro-retention and hydro-regulation.
• Mechanisms of action on skin cells include antioxidant activity and the induction of cytokines, and matrix metalloproteinase expression.

Marine native Collagen

• Native Collagen has a high molecular weight, that leaves a protective film on the skin with tensor effects and remarkable moisturizing capabilities.

Marine Hydrolyzed Elastin

• Provide nutrients and amino acids that the fibroblasts (type of skin cell) will use to produce new fibres of elastin and collagen.
• It contains the peptides and amino acids of elastin: Aspartic Acid, Theorine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Proline, Glycine, Lysine, and Arginine.

It is a complete active ingredient from which the skin will get substances to nourish, increase its moisture, get external protection against damaging substances, and decrease its wrinkles.