Dermal Diagnosis™ | ADP

Retinoic acid, often referred to as tretinoin in its pharmaceutical form, is the active form of Vitamin A. It is widely recognized for its powerful effects in dermatology and skin care, particularly in treating acne and signs of skin aging.

Retinoic acid works at the cellular level to modify gene expression and affect cell growth. In treating acne, it promotes the turnover of skin cells, reducing the likelihood of pore-clogging and helping to clear existing breakouts. Additionally, it decreases the cohesiveness of follicular epithelial cells, further preventing the formation of comedones.

Retinoic acid's ability to stimulate collagen production is a key benefit in anti-aging skincare. This leads to a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles and an improvement in overall skin texture and tone. It also aids skin discoloration and hyperpigmentation by accelerating cell turnover, bringing new skin cells to the surface faster, and shedding pigmented and damaged cells.

Despite its benefits, retinoic acid can irritate the skin, causing side effects like redness, dryness, and peeling, especially during the initial period of use. Its potency means it is generally available by prescription and requires careful monitoring by a healthcare professional.

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a newer, esterified form of retinoic acid. Unlike cosmetic retinol, HPR binds directly to the retinoid receptors of the skin cells without needing conversion. This direct binding allows it to deliver similar benefits to retinoic acid, such as stimulating collagen production, improving skin elasticity, and reducing signs of aging, but with a lower risk of irritation.

HPR is considered more gentle and less irritating than traditional retinoic acid while offering comparable benefits. With HPR, everyone has access to the benefits of prescription retinoids without the risk of side effects.

• Cell Turnover and Renewal: HPR promotes rapid cell turnover, aiding in the exfoliation of dead skin cells and generating new cells.
• Skin Texture: Promoting cell renewal improves skin texture and addresses issues like roughness and dullness.
• Collagen Production: It stimulates collagen production, which is essential for reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improving skin elasticity.
• Acne Treatment: Effective in treating acne by unclogging pores and reducing the size of sebaceous glands, it diminishes both inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne lesions.
• Pigmentation: It can reduce hyperpigmentation by accelerating the turnover of hyperpigmented skin cells and inhibiting melanin production.
• Photoaging: Effective in treating signs of photoaging, reversing some of the damage caused by UV radiation.

• Retinoid Receptor Activity: HPR, an ester of retinoic acid, binds directly to retinoid receptors in the skin, enabling it to work without needing to be converted into retinoic acid.
• Lower Irritation: Typically, it causes less irritation than retinoic acid, making it more suitable for sensitive skin types.
• Collagen Stimulation and Anti-Aging: Like retinoic acid, HPR helps in stimulating collagen production and has anti-aging properties.
• Acne and Hyperpigmentation: It effectively treats acne and reduces hyperpigmentation, often with fewer side effects than retinoic acid.
• Stability and Penetration: HPR is more stable and lipid-soluble, so it penetrates the skin more effectively and is less prone to degradation.

Azelaic acid, a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid, is an effective ingredient in dermatological treatments, particularly for acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation, with antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties.

• Anti-Inflammatory Properties: Azelaic acid reduces inflammation, effectively treating inflammatory skin conditions like acne and rosacea.
• Antimicrobial Action: It possesses antimicrobial properties that target acne-causing bacteria (Propionibacterium acnes), helping to reduce acne outbreaks.
• Keratolytic Effects: It helps unclog pores and reduce the formation of comedones (black and whiteheads) by normalizing the shedding of skin cells.
• Depigmenting Agent: Azelaic acid effectively treats hyperpigmentation disorders, including melasma, as it inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production.

• Acne: Azelaic acid inhibits the proliferation of acne-causing bacteria on the skin’s surface, thereby reducing bacterial growth and inflammation. Its antibacterial activity is primarily against Propionibacterium acnes, a key bacterium involved in the development of acne. Furthermore, azelaic acid helps unclog pores and reduce skin cell buildup, effectively treating mild to moderate acne.
• Rosacea: Azelaic acid's anti-inflammatory action helps to reduce redness and swelling associated with rosacea. In addition, azelaic acid's ability to reduce keratinization (the process by which skin cells become more fibrous and less flexible) contributes to its effectiveness in this condition.
• Pigmentation: Azelaic acid effectively treats melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase, an enzyme in melanin production. This helps to reduce the formation of excess pigment and can lead to a more even skin tone.

Alpha Arbutin is a derivative of hydroquinone and a biosynthetic active ingredient. Its primary action is inhibiting tyrosinase, a key enzyme involved in the synthesis of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color. Alpha Arbutin effectively reduces melanin production in the skin by inhibiting tyrosin activity. This gradually lightens hyperpigmented areas, such as age spots, melasma, and scars, resulting in a more even skin tone.

One of the significant advantages of Alpha Arbutin over other skin-lightening agents is its safety profile. Unlike hydroquinone, which has been associated with potential side effects and is restricted in many countries, Alpha Arbutin is considered safe and less irritating to the skin, even at higher concentrations. This makes it a suitable ingredient for all skin types, including sensitive skin.

In addition to its skin-lightening properties, Alpha Arbutin has also shown antioxidant effects, helping to protect the skin from oxidative stress caused by environmental factors like UV radiation and pollution.

• Melanin Inhibition: Alpha Arbutin works by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production in the skin. This action reduces the formation of melanin, leading to a lightening of skin pigmentation.
• Even Skin Tone: Regular use of alpha arbutin can lead to a more even skin tone overall, reducing the appearance of age spots and hyperpigmentation.
• Reduced Skin Discoloration: It effectively reduces the appearance of dark spots and areas of hyperpigmentation, such as those caused by acne, sun damage, or hormonal changes.
• Safer Alternative to Hydroquinone: While structurally similar to hydroquinone, alpha arbutin is a safer option with a lower risk of side effects.

• Hyperpigmentation: Alpha arbutin treats melasma, sun spots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from acne.
• Skin Brightening: Provide a more radiant and uniform skin tone.
• Anti-Aging: Reduce the appearance of age-related spots and uneven skin tone.

Glycolic acid is highly acclaimed for its remarkable exfoliating and rejuvenating properties. Its small molecular size enables deep skin penetration, fostering efficient exfoliation at the cellular level.

Glycolic acid’s water solubility allows it to penetrate the upper layers of the skin easily. Its primary mechanism of action involves weakening the bonds between dead skin cells, promoting their shedding, and revealing the newer, healthier skin beneath. This process of accelerated cell turnover is instrumental in addressing a range of skin concerns, from aging signs like fine lines and wrinkles to texture irregularities and hyperpigmentation.

Glycolic acid's efficacy extends beyond mere exfoliation. It's also recognized for stimulating collagen production, a crucial protein in maintaining skin's elasticity and firmness. This aspect contributes to its anti-aging benefits. Furthermore, its hydrating properties add to its appeal, as they help increase the skin's capacity to retain moisture, leading to a more supple and vibrant complexion.

Clinical studies have consistently supported glycolic acid's role in improving skin appearance. Research indicates significant improvements in skin texture and pigmentation and the visible reduction of wrinkles and fine lines with glycolic acid.

• Exfoliation: Glycolic acid is a powerful exfoliant. It dissolves the bonds between dead skin cells on the skin’s surface, facilitating their removal and revealing newer, healthier skin underneath.
• Increased Collagen Production: It stimulates collagen production, which is essential for skin elasticity and firmness. This action helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
• Enhanced Skin Hydration: Glycolic acid improves the skin's ability to retain moisture, enhancing hydration and a more plump, vibrant skin appearance.
• Skin Brightening: Removing dead skin cells can brighten the complexion and reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation.
• Improved Skin Texture: Regular use of glycolic acid can lead to smoother, more even textured skin, making it beneficial for conditions like keratosis pilaris.
• Acne Treatment: Its exfoliating properties help in unclogging pores, thereby reducing the occurrence of acne breakouts.

• Aging Skin: Glycolic acid is widely used in anti-aging products to reduce signs of aging, such as fine lines, wrinkles, and age spots.
• Acne-Prone Skin: It helps manage acne by exfoliating the skin and removing blockage from pores.
• Hyperpigmentation: It effectively treats hyperpigmentation by accelerating the removal of hyperpigmented skin cells.
• Textural Irregularities: Glycolic acid can improve skin texture and is beneficial for treating keratosis pilaris and other conditions of rough skin.
• Sun-Damaged Skin: It helps rejuvenate sun-damaged skin by accelerating cell turnover and collagen synthesis.

Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that helps neutralize skin free radicals. These free radicals are generated by environmental stressors like UV radiation and pollution, which contribute to premature aging. By neutralizing these harmful molecules, vitamin C helps prevent oxidative skin damage, thereby reducing signs of aging, such as fine lines and wrinkles.

Another significant benefit of vitamin C is its role in collagen production. Collagen is a key protein that gives the skin its structure and firmness. As an essential cofactor for collagen biosynthesis, vitamin C helps maintain skin elasticity and can aid in wound healing and scar reduction.

Vitamin C is also known for its skin-brightening properties. It helps to inhibit the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in melanin production. By reducing melanin formation, vitamin C can help lighten hyperpigmentation and even skin tone, leading to a brighter and more radiant complexion.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of vitamin C. Unlike ascorbic acid, which is water-soluble and can be unstable in certain formulations, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is more stable. Due to its lipid-soluble nature, it can penetrate the skin more effectively, reaching the deeper layers of the skin, stimulating collagen production, and providing antioxidant protection.

• Antioxidant Properties: Powerful antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals caused by UV radiation and pollution, preventing oxidative stress and damage to the skin.
• Collagen Synthesis: It plays a crucial role in collagen synthesis, aiding in maintaining skin firmness and elasticity and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
• Skin Brightening: Effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out skin tone by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for melanin production.
• Photoprotection: While not a sunscreen, it provides photoprotection by neutralizing free radicals induced by UV exposure.

• Skin Aging: Reduce signs of aging and improve skin texture.
• Hyperpigmentation: Effective in treating hyperpigmentation, sun spots, and melasma.
• Sun Damage: Help mitigate the effects of sun damage and provide some level of photoprotection.
• General Skin Health: Both forms can improve overall skin health by boosting collagen production and providing antioxidant protection.

• Stable form of Vitamin C: Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a more stable, lipid-soluble vitamin C, allowing for better skin penetration and less irritation than other forms.
• Enhanced Collagen Production: It has been shown to stimulate collagen production more effectively than ascorbic acid, aiding in anti-aging and skin rejuvenation.
• Hydration and Barrier Function: Due to its lipid-soluble nature, it enhances skin hydration and reinforces the skin barrier.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan found throughout the body's connective, epithelial, and neural tissues. Most abundantly present in the skin, eyes, and synovial fluid, HA is renowned for its exceptional capacity to retain moisture — a single gram can hold up to six liters of water.

In skincare, the primary appeal of hyaluronic acid lies in its unparalleled hydrating abilities. As a humectant, HA attracts and retains moisture from the environment, providing intense hydration to the skin. This hydrating property contributes significantly to maintaining skin plumpness, suppleness, and elasticity.

Beyond hydration, hyaluronic acid also plays a vital role in skin repair and regeneration. It supports the skin's healing and repair processes, and its anti-inflammatory properties help calm irritated skin. Moreover, HA's ability to promote collagen production, a crucial protein for skin elasticity, further underscores its anti-aging benefits.

The molecular size of hyaluronic acid influences its skin penetration and efficacy. High-molecular-weight HA remains on the skin's surface, providing hydration and forming a barrier against moisture loss. In contrast, low-molecular-weight HA penetrates deeper into the skin's layers, offering more profound hydrating and rejuvenating effects.

Hyaluronic acid's remarkable ability to hydrate, improve skin elasticity, aid in wound healing, and provide antioxidant protection makes it valuable in managing various dermatological conditions, particularly aging, dryness, and sensitive skin.

• Hydration: Hyaluronic acid is a powerful humectant that can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water, significantly enhancing skin hydration and leading to plumper, more hydrated skin.
• Skin Elasticity and Wrinkle Reduction: By increasing skin moisture, it improves skin elasticity, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and gives the skin a more youthful appearance.
• Wound Healing: It plays a role in wound healing due to its ability to regulate inflammation levels and signal the body to build more blood vessels in the damaged area.
• Barrier Enhancement: Hyaluronic acid helps reinforce the skin's natural barriers, protecting against environmental factors and retaining moisture.
• Antioxidant Properties: It provides antioxidant defense against free-radical damage from the sun and pollution.

• Aging Skin: Its ability to reduce wrinkles and improve skin elasticity makes it popular in anti-aging skincare products.
• Dry Skin: Hyaluronic acid is beneficial in treating dry skin conditions by providing intense hydration.
• Wound Care: Its role in wound healing is leveraged in post-procedure care, such as after laser treatments, and in healing minor cuts and abrasions.
• Acne Scars: It can help treat acne scars by promoting skin regeneration and reducing inflammation.
• Sensitive Skin: Hyaluronic acid is suitable for sensitive skin due to its gentle nature. It provides hydration without irritating.

Niacinamide offers several benefits for the skin, primarily due to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It reduces the redness and inflammation associated with acne, rosacea, and other inflammatory skin conditions. Additionally, niacinamide's ability to improve the skin's barrier function benefits all skin types, particularly those with eczema or mature skin.

Another significant benefit of niacinamide is its role in reducing hyperpigmentation. Studies have shown that it can decrease the transfer of melanin to the epidermis, helping to fade dark spots and even out skin tone.

Niacinamide also plays a role in reducing the visible signs of aging. It has been found to stimulate collagen production and improve skin elasticity, reducing fine lines and wrinkles. Its antioxidant properties further protect the skin from environmental damage, such as pollution and UV radiation, which contribute to premature aging.

The efficacy of niacinamide and its ability to address multiple skin concerns simultaneously has led to its growing popularity in both over-the-counter and prescription skincare formulations.

• Barrier Function Enhancement: Niacinamide helps strengthen the skin’s barrier function by increasing the production of ceramides, lipids that keep the skin hydrated and protect against environmental damage.
• Anti-inflammatory Properties: It has notable anti-inflammatory effects, which are beneficial in reducing redness and inflammation associated with acne, eczema, and other inflammatory skin conditions.
• Sebum Regulation: Niacinamide helps regulate sebum production, which controls excess oiliness and can benefit acne-prone skin.
• Hyperpigmentation Reduction: It reduces hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes, leading to an even skin tone.
• Anti-aging Effects: Niacinamide helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by boosting collagen production and improving skin elasticity.
• Antioxidant Activity: It has antioxidant properties, protecting the skin from oxidative stress and environmental aggressors like UV radiation and pollution.

• Acne and Oily Skin: Niacinamide effectively manages acne and oily skin by regulating sebum and reducing inflammation.
• Hyperpigmentation and Melasma: Its ability to reduce melanin transfer benefits it in treating hyperpigmentation and melasma.
• Aging Skin: Niacinamide targets wrinkles and loss of firmness.
• Skin Barrier Disorders: Niacinamide is beneficial in treating skin barrier disorders like atopic dermatitis and eczema by enhancing barrier function and hydration.
• Photodamage and Skin Protection: It helps mitigate the effects of photodamage and provides some degree of protection against environmental damage.

Peptides are short chains of amino acids with a wide range of biological functions and skin benefits. They are essentially small fragments of proteins, which are fundamental components of all living cells, including collagen and elastin in the skin.

In skincare, peptides are known for enhancing skin repair and rejuvenation. They function as signaling molecules, instructing cells to perform specific tasks such as producing collagen and elastin, vital for maintaining the skin's firmness and elasticity. This makes peptides especially beneficial in anti-aging products, as they can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Research has shown that certain peptides can improve skin barrier function, increase hydration, and soothe skin inflammation. This makes them suitable for products targeting dry, sensitive, or inflamed skin.

Peptides, with their diverse functions in promoting collagen production, strengthening the skin barrier, wound healing, and anti-inflammatory actions, are pivotal in managing various dermatological conditions, particularly in anti-aging, sensitive skin care, and wound healing applications.

• Collagen Production: Certain peptides, known as signal peptides, stimulate collagen production in the skin, enhancing skin firmness and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
• Skin Barrier Strengthening: Peptides can strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration, and protect against environmental damage.
• Wound Healing: Some peptides play a role in the skin's natural healing process, aiding tissue repair and regeneration.
• Anti-Inflammatory Effects: Certain peptides have anti-inflammatory properties, helping to soothe and calm irritated skin.
• Antimicrobial Action: Some peptides possess antimicrobial properties, potentially helping to manage acne and other skin infections.

• Aging Skin: Peptides can stimulate collagen production and improve skin elasticity.
• Sensitive Skin Conditions: Peptides are beneficial for sensitive or inflamed skin due to their soothing properties.
• Acne-Prone Skin: Antimicrobial peptides can be effective in acne treatment formulations.
• Wound Care and Repair: Peptides improve wound healing and reduce scarring.

The fat-soluble Vitamin E's benefits in maintaining skin health and appearance are well-acknowledged in both cosmetic and clinical dermatology. Comprising a group of eight compounds, including four tocopherols and four tocotrienols, Vitamin E is known for its role in protecting cell membranes from oxidative damage.

Vitamin E is celebrated in skincare for its ability to neutralize free radicals caused by environmental stressors such as UV radiation and pollution. These free radicals can lead to premature skin aging, making Vitamin E a valuable ingredient in anti-aging skincare products. Its antioxidant action helps to protect the skin from damage, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and improve skin texture and tone.

Additionally, Vitamin E is known for its moisturizing benefits. It helps to strengthen the skin barrier, reduce moisture loss, and keep the skin hydrated and supple. This makes it especially beneficial for dry and damaged skin.

Vitamin E also has anti-inflammatory properties, making it beneficial in soothing and calming irritated skin. This has implications for conditions such as dermatitis and acne, where inflammation plays a key role.

• Antioxidant Protection: Vitamin E neutralizes harmful free radicals in the skin, preventing oxidative stress and damage caused by environmental factors like UV radiation and pollution.
• Moisturization: It has moisturizing properties, helping to improve skin hydration and alleviate dryness.
• Wound Healing: Vitamin E may assist in the skin's healing process, although its efficacy in wound healing is still a subject of research.
• Photoprotection: While not a sunscreen, it can provide some degree of photoprotection by strengthening the skin's defense against UV-induced damage.
• Anti-Inflammatory Effects: It helps reduce skin inflammation and is beneficial in managing conditions like eczema and psoriasis.

• Skin Aging: Its antioxidant properties make it useful in anti-aging skincare products to protect against free radical damage and improve skin appearance.
• Dry Skin Conditions: Vitamin E's moisturizing effects are beneficial in treating dry skin and improving overall skin texture.
• Inflammatory Skin Diseases: It can be helpful in soothing inflammatory skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis.
• Sun Protection and Repair: Vitamin E is included in sunscreens and after-sun products for its ability to mitigate sun damage.
• Scar Treatment: Some studies suggest Vitamin E may help reduce the appearance of scars, although evidence is mixed.

Using sunscreen is a fundamental aspect of skin care and preventive dermatology. It's essential for reducing the risk of skin cancers and photoaging and maintaining overall skin health in the face of constant exposure to UV radiation.

Sunscreen is a vital skincare product designed to protect the skin from the harmful effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun. Two primary types of UV radiation affect the skin: UVA and UVB. UVA rays penetrate deep into the skin and are primarily responsible for aging and long-term skin damage, whereas UVB rays cause sunburn and play a key role in developing skin cancer.

Sunscreen products work by either absorbing, reflecting, or scattering sunlight. They contain chemical compounds that absorb UV radiation and convert it into a small amount of heat or physical compounds (like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide) that act as a physical barrier, reflecting UV light away from the skin.

The effectiveness of sunscreen is measured by its Sun Protection Factor (SPF). SPF indicates how well the sunscreen protects against UVB rays. For example, an SPF of 30 means it would take 30 times longer for your skin to burn than without sunscreen. However, it's important to note that no sunscreen can block 100% UV rays.

Regular use of sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 can reduce the risk of skin cancer, prevent sunburn, and slow down the skin's aging process.

Prevention of Sunburn

• UVB Protection: Sunscreen protects the skin from UVB rays, which cause sunburn. This reduces the immediate risk of skin damage and discomfort.

Skin Cancer Prevention

• Reduces Risk of Skin Cancers: Regular use of sunscreen significantly lowers the risk of developing various types of skin cancer, especially melanoma, squamous cell carcinoma, and basal cell carcinoma.

Prevention of Photoaging

• UVA Protection: Sunscreen also shields the skin from UVA rays, which penetrate deeper into the skin and are primarily responsible for photoaging, including wrinkles, leathery skin, and sunspots.

Protection Against Photosensitivity

• Essential for Sensitive Skin Conditions: Sunscreen helps prevent flare-ups triggered by sun exposure for individuals with photosensitive skin conditions like lupus or rosacea.

Hyperpigmentation and Melasma

• Even Skin Tone: It aids in preventing and managing hyperpigmentation and melasma, conditions exacerbated by sun exposure.

General Skin Health

• Maintains Skin Health: Sunscreen helps maintain overall skin health and integrity by protecting the skin from UV damage.